Nieddu sought to costume actor Andra Working day in means that conveyed Holiday’s glamour even as the persecution she faced for her heroin addiction took its toll. Even a “princess moment” this sort of as Day’s unforgettable rendition of Lover Guy is conveyed via a appear that has to be “masked up” backstage, Nieddu suggests. From time to time attract is just a false front, but in some cases it’s what the dispossessed can give to them selves when society thinks they are worthy of nothing at all. As functionality critic Madison Moore told me, “sometimes the greatest appears to be are improvised.”
How ‘angular Black womanhood’ carries on to encourage
Fashion is a renewable source for Black women, as Kitt acknowledges in an aphorism: “The only issue I can market and still personal is my talent.” In her daughter Kitt Shapiro’s memoir, Eartha & Kitt (Pegasus, Could 2021), we get a photo of a person who drew a sharp difference among her public attractiveness and her non-public lifetime, in particular as a mom. This have to have for a periodic retreat from the glare of publicity was felt with certain force by Black ladies who could not get for granted the deference accorded white women of all ages. Vogue tells this tale as properly, significantly in films that find to reconstruct the vulnerable non-public times of our iconic figures.
In the profusion of tales making it to the display screen — and in new publications like Daphne Brooks’ Liner Notes for the Revolution (Harvard University Push, 2021) and Maureen Mahon’s Black Diamond Queens (Duke College Push, 2020) — we can now encounter numerous of these Black gals artists in all their collectively lively and subversive glory. Now they are no lengthier often ”thrown towards a white background,” as Hurston at the time quipped, but can be noticed and read in the affirming Black circle, for whom they continue on to serve as role models for building a way out of no way.
Tavia Nyong’o writes, teaches and curates Black effectiveness, and is the writer, most recently, of Afro-Fabulations: The Queer Drama of Black Life (New York College Push, 2018). He is operating on a suite of essays about the darkish art of refusal in new artwork and criticism